The evolution of the design of emerald jewelry.

The emerald, with its vibrant green colour, has been a precious stone appreciated throughout history. Its jewelry design has evolved significantly, reflecting changes in fashion, technology and tastes. This article explores the evolution of jewelry design with emeralds, describing how rings, sayings, bracelets, earrings and crowns have changed through different eras.

First Jewels with Emeralds

Emerald has been a symbol of wealth and sophistication since ancient times. Its intense green color makes it a remarkable stone, and its history in jewelry reflects not only technical advances, but also changes in styles and trends. Over the centuries, the design of jewelry with emeralds has undergone a remarkable evolution, adapting to the tastes and technologies of each period.

In the early civilizations, such as the Egyptian, emerald was already valued for its beauty and symbolic meaning. Emerald jewels were often simple, but reflected an intrinsic sophistication.

Features:

• Cutting: Mainly in cabujón, with a smooth and rounded surface, due to limitations in carving techniques.
• Engassed: Easily worn in gold or silver mounts, with no advanced setting techniques.
• Design: Basic designs that focused on the stone itself, without complex ornamental details.

Timeline for Epoch

Former Egypt (3000 BC) 30 BC.)

In Ancient Egypt, emeralds were highly valued and often used in protective amulets. The jewellery included rings, sayings, necklaces and sometimes simple crowns, with a focus on the symbolic power of the emerald.

• Rings: Usually golden with emeralds in a hub, with no additional details. They often had simple shapes, like smooth bands.
• Died: Used as amulets, the emerald sayings were small and simple, often with protective inscriptions.
• Bracelets: Simple, with emeralds set in gold or silver, without complicated elaborations.
• Earrings: Uncommon, but when they were used, they were small and simple, with emeralds set on basic mounts.
• Crowns: Little documented, but it is known that the emeralds were integrated into ceremonial jewelry, albeit rudimentary.

Roman Empire (27 BC. 476 A.D.)

During the Roman Empire, the emerald became more accessible and its use in jewelry was sophisticated. The Romans began experimenting with more advanced cuts and decorative settings.

• Rings: They became standout pieces with facetized emeralds. The designs included more elaborate mounts, often combined with other precious stones such as diamond.
• Dies: More decorative and detailed, often integrated into chains or necklaces. The emeralds were presented in geometric shapes or with engraved details.
• Bracelets: They incorporated emeralds set in repetitive patterns and were often adorned with filigree details.
• Earrings: They became more elaborate, with emeralds in the form of a kaboon or facet and mounted on ornate gold structures.
• Crowns: They used emeralds in combinations with other stones, mounted on more elaborate structures that reflected status and wealth.

Renaissance (1400 . 1600)

The Renaissance brought a resurgence in the art and science of jewelry, with a focus on the richness of detail and sophistication.

• Rings: Large and emeralded surrounded by diamonds or pearls. The designs included intricate gold mounts and elaborate details.
• Died: They became pieces of art, often in the form of medallions or emerald pendants in detailed mounts.
• Bracelets: They often adorned with emeralds set on artistic patterns, combined with other decorative elements such as pearls and diamonds.
• Earrings: They were elaborate and often included large emeralds set in filigree designs or drop-shaped mounts.
• Crowns: They became symbols of power, with emeralds embedded in complex designs that combined gold, silver and other precious stones.

19th century (1800 . 1900)

The 19th century introduced Victorian jewelry, characterized by its richness in detail and the use of emeralds in a variety of styles.

• Rings: Often large and ostentatious, with emeralds surrounded by diamonds or golden mounts decorated with intricate details.
• Dies: They became decorative pieces with emeralds in elegant shapes, often in brooches or necklaces with elaborate mounts.
• Bracelets: Often decorated with emeralds set in ornamental patterns, combined with fungry details and other precious stones.
• Earrings: Designed with large emeralds or in combinations with diamonds, often with details in gold or silver.
• Crowns: They continued to be status symbols, with emeralds set on luxurious designs that reflected the richness and opulence of the time.

20th Century and the 21st century (1900 . Present)

In the 20th and 21st century, jewelry with emeralds has adopted a wide variety of styles, from Art Deco to modern minimalism.

• Rings: From the geometric designs of Art Deco to contemporary styles that combine emeralds with innovative metals and precious stones. Modern rings can present emeralds in unique cuts and stylized mounts.
• Digo: They range from simple pendants to complex pieces of art, with emeralds in various shapes and configurations, often combined with diamonds and other decorative elements.
• Bracelets: They include modern and elegant designs, often with emeralds set in contemporary patterns, combined with other metals and stones to create striking pieces.
• Earnings: Modern styles range from lone and elegant emerald earrings to more complex designs that incorporate emeralds into innovative mounts and precious metal combinations.
• Crowns: Although less common today, emerald crowns have been modernized, incorporating emeralds into sophisticated and stylized designs that reflect elegance and tradition.

Paula A. Bonilla

Social communicator and journalist from the Sergio Arboleda University, Colombia. Joyera and passionate about constantly learning about the gorgeous gems and the national high jewelry.

He is currently working for one of the most important jewelry stores in Bogotá, Emerald by Love. A Jewelry with more than 40 years of experience and also has 2 physical headquarters in the capital city of Colombia, located in the center of the city.