Emeralds have been prized for centuries for their dazzling green color and rarity. Used in the most exclusive jewelry, these gemstones capture elegance and luxury. However, not all emeralds are suitable for high-end pieces, so it is crucial to know how to select them properly.

In this article, you will discover the essential characteristics of an emerald for jewelry and how it combines with different precious metals such as gold, silver and bronze.

Characteristics of an Emerald for Jewelry

When choosing an emerald for a luxury piece of jewelry, there are several key characteristics to consider:

• Color : Deep green is the most prized shade. High-quality emeralds have a vivid green color with a slight blue tint. The purer and more uniform the color, the higher its value.
• Clarity : Emeralds often have natural inclusions, known as “gardens.” However, those with fewer inclusions visible to the naked eye are more valuable. A balance must be achieved between clarity and color, as both characteristics influence the brilliance and beauty of the stone.
• Cut : A good emerald cut not only enhances its brilliance, but also minimizes the appearance of inclusions. The most common cuts include the emerald cut (rectangular) and oval cuts, which maximize color and clarity.
• Carat Weight : Size matters, but larger emeralds with visible inclusions may not be as valuable as smaller ones with high clarity and color.

Can All Emeralds Be Used in Jewelry?

No, not all emeralds are suitable for jewelry. Only those that meet certain quality criteria can be used in jewelry making. Gemological grade emeralds, which are clear, of good color, and relatively free of visible inclusions, are the ones selected for jewelry. Key factors that determine whether an emerald is suitable for jewelry include:

1. Color : The best emeralds have a deep, vibrant green color, neither too dark nor too light.
2. Clarity : Although emeralds often have inclusions, those with fewer inclusions visible to the naked eye are preferred.
3. Size and cut : Stones that can be cut into aesthetic sizes and shapes, without losing too much material, are ideal for jewelry.
4. Durability : The most durable emeralds, without significant fractures, are more suitable for everyday use in jewelry.

Low-quality emeralds, with too many inclusions, fractures or dull colors, are often considered industrial or collector's quality rather than jewelry quality.

Emeralds for jewelry according to the material

Emeralds used in gold, silver and bronze jewellery must meet certain criteria to ensure that they look good and enhance the beauty of the metal they are set with. Although the quality requirements for emeralds are similar for any type of jewellery, the metal they are set in can influence the final look. Here are some details on what emeralds should look like for each metal type:

1. Emeralds for Gold Jewelry :

• Color : Deep, rich green emeralds are preferred as gold, especially yellow gold, complements and enhances these vibrant hues.
• Clarity : Since gold is a luxury metal, emeralds with fewer visible inclusions are more commonly used. This ensures that the stone not only shines in color, but also in clarity.
• Cut : A precise cut, such as an emerald cut or oval cuts, is sought to make the stone look elegant and sophisticated.
• Size : Medium to large emeralds work well, as gold tends to highlight larger gems.

2. Emeralds for Silver Jewelry :

• Color : Lighter or softer toned emeralds may be more attractive in silver, as the cool shine of silver can complement the light green tones of the emerald.
• Clarity : Emeralds with some inclusions are acceptable in silver jewelry, as the combination is more affordable than with gold. Still, a good balance must be maintained between clarity and price.
• Cut : Simpler cuts, such as round or cabochon (without facets), are popular in silver jewelry. This allows the emerald to maintain a natural appearance.
• Size : Smaller emeralds are often preferred for more discreet silver jewelry, such as thinner earrings or rings.

3. Emeralds for Bronze Jewelry :

• Color : For bronze, it is ideal to use emeralds in darker or deeper shades. The darker color contrasts well with the coppery shine of the bronze, creating a warm and striking visual effect.
• Clarity : Emeralds with inclusions may be acceptable, as bronze is a more economical metal and is more commonly used in costume or casual jewelry.
• Cut : Less complex cuts, such as cabochons, are popular in bronze jewelry, as they often give a rustic or bohemian look.
• Size : Larger emeralds work best, as bronze tends to be used in bolder, bulkier pieces.

Common Factors:

• Treatments : Many emeralds are treated to improve their clarity and colour. This is accepted in the industry, provided it is disclosed. However, stones treated with oil or resin may be more sensitive to knocks, so consideration should be given to their intended use.
• Durability : Since emeralds are relatively fragile stones compared to other gems such as diamonds, it is important that they are well secured in their setting, regardless of the metal used.

Paula A. Bonilla

Social communicator and journalist from Sergio Arboleda University in Colombia. She is also a jeweler and is passionate about constantly learning about precious gems and national fine jewelry.

Currently, she works for one of the most important jewelry stores in Bogotá, Esmeralda by Love. This jewelry store has more than 40 years of experience and has 2 physical branches in the capital of Colombia, located in the city center .